Neo-vintage watches from the 1980s–1990s-2000s are finally gaining recognition. With better wearability, reliability, and character, these once-overlooked pieces bridge heritage and modernity, offering collectors both nostalgia and enduring craftsmanship.

With gold at $4,000 an ounce, melt value is now setting the floor for many vintage gold watches. Dealers are weighing Piaget, Patek, AP, and Rolex models before negotiating, and some pieces are worth more as bullion than as watches. After 30 years in the business, I’ve never seen anything like this—and it’s transforming the vintage market in real time.

The Valjoux 72 isn’t just a chronograph movement—it’s the soul of mid-century watchmaking. From Rolex to Heuer, Universal to Breitling, this manual-wind column-wheel caliber powered icons of the golden era. Reliable, tactile, and full of character, the Valjoux 72 defined how a chronograph should feel—and why collectors still chase that unmistakable click today.

The Patek Philippe Ref. 565 remains one of the brand’s most compelling vintage references—and one that still sparks debate. In this “mythbuster,” we take a closer look at those mysterious serial numbers between the lugs and reveal why they’re not a cause for concern, but rather a glimpse into Taubert’s early casework for Patek in the late 1930s.

When evaluating a vintage Rolex, an expert’s hands often reveal more than their eyes. Matthew Bain shares a timeless lesson on “seeing with your hands” — how touch, not sight, can instantly expose condition, originality, and value. Discover the tactile skill every new vintage watch enthusiast should master.

Inheriting a watch can be emotional and confusing—how do you honor its legacy while finding its true value? Matthew Bain Inc. shares three expert steps to help you research, document, and sell your inherited watch safely and confidently, ensuring you make the right decision without regret.