Neo-vintage watches from the 1980s–1990s-2000s are finally gaining recognition. With better wearability, reliability, and character, these once-overlooked pieces bridge heritage and modernity, offering collectors both nostalgia and enduring craftsmanship.

With gold at $4,000 an ounce, melt value is now setting the floor for many vintage gold watches. Dealers are weighing Piaget, Patek, AP, and Rolex models before negotiating, and some pieces are worth more as bullion than as watches. After 30 years in the business, I’ve never seen anything like this—and it’s transforming the vintage market in real time.

The Valjoux 72 isn’t just a chronograph movement—it’s the soul of mid-century watchmaking. From Rolex to Heuer, Universal to Breitling, this manual-wind column-wheel caliber powered icons of the golden era. Reliable, tactile, and full of character, the Valjoux 72 defined how a chronograph should feel—and why collectors still chase that unmistakable click today.

The Patek Philippe Ref. 565 remains one of the brand’s most compelling vintage references—and one that still sparks debate. In this “mythbuster,” we take a closer look at those mysterious serial numbers between the lugs and reveal why they’re not a cause for concern, but rather a glimpse into Taubert’s early casework for Patek in the late 1930s.

Part IV of the 'I Wish I Had A Time Machine' series by @Auctionlytics. Here Nicolas takes the Time Machine back 15 years to 2008 amidst the worlds shake-up and recovery of the financial crisis. Check out some of the awesome watches that came up at the time!

Patek Philippe Ref. 5035: a modern classic bridging vintage roots. I recall 1996 Baselworld's buzz as Patek unveiled its first annual calendar. Powered by Caliber 315 S QA, it auto-adjusts months with one yearly tweak—practical elegance rivaling perpetual calendars at lower cost. Its case echoes the iconic 1950s Ref. 2526's Calatrava poise. Personal for me: I witnessed its debut, unlike my pre-1960s trades. Wearable history for collectors.

Part III of the I Wish I Had A Time Machine Series. In this one Nicolas Zalles reviews historical sales and documents The Ones That Got Away

Exclusive insiders lore on one of the most coveted watches in existence the Patek Philippe J.B. Champion Observatory Ref. 2458. Matthew Bain shares his knowledge and own experience in the historical trading of one of the worlds most storied timepieces.

Raymond Loewy’s MAYA Principle—Most Advanced, Yet Acceptable—balances innovation with familiarity. His iconic Air Force One livery, designed for JFK, graces the Matthew Bain Inc. office, a testament to timeless design. This seafoam blue masterpiece reflects Loewy’s genius, blending bold vision with presidential elegance.

Matthew Bain explores his love for the famed Cartier Cintrée, including 'the one that got away', and a breakdown of their iterations through the years.

Part II of Guest Contributor Nicolas Zalles Periodical - I Wish I Had A Time Machine. Focusing on some interesting auction results from the year 2000. In his analysis Nicolas breaks down The Ones That Got Away, wild What They Were Thinking??, and a displays a few picks of Before It Was Cool.

Nicolas Zalles, aka @AuctionLytics , shares his watch collecting journey from Instagram’s early days. Meeting Matt Bain in 2017, he admired iconic watches like the Rolex Submariner 5512. After a pandemic hiatus, he’s back with a new series, I Wish I Had a Time Machine, exploring historical watch prices and trends. Next week, discover what $100K bought at auction in 2000. If you love watches and nostalgia, join Nicolas for a timely ride!

Imagine $50K to spend at Matthew Bain, Inc.! Our Contributor Michael Fossner crafted a dream collection, checking off all of his boxes while browsing the online store at Mattewbaininc.com