The vintage watch market enters 2026 with a renewed focus on originality, material value, and cultural influence. As gold prices rise and supply of poor examples shrinks, collectors gain clearer signals on quality. At the same time, shifting fashion trends—Piaget’s revival, stone dials, Cartier’s surge—are shaping demand in ways both cyclical and revealing.

In Part V of I Wish I Had a Time Machine, Nicolas Zalles (@auctionlytics) looks back at the rise of F.P. Journe—from cult favorite to auction phenomenon. From Chronomètre Blues that once failed to sell at $20K to brass-movement Resonances now reaching six figures, this is a firsthand account of conviction collecting before the hype.

Neo-vintage watches from the 1980s–1990s-2000s are finally gaining recognition. With better wearability, reliability, and character, these once-overlooked pieces bridge heritage and modernity, offering collectors both nostalgia and enduring craftsmanship.

With gold at $4,000 an ounce, melt value is now setting the floor for many vintage gold watches. Dealers are weighing Piaget, Patek, AP, and Rolex models before negotiating, and some pieces are worth more as bullion than as watches. After 30 years in the business, I’ve never seen anything like this—and it’s transforming the vintage market in real time.

Part IV of the 'I Wish I Had A Time Machine' series by @Auctionlytics. Here Nicolas takes the Time Machine back 15 years to 2008 amidst the worlds shake-up and recovery of the financial crisis. Check out some of the awesome watches that came up at the time!

Nicolas Zalles, aka @AuctionLytics , shares his watch collecting journey from Instagram’s early days. Meeting Matt Bain in 2017, he admired iconic watches like the Rolex Submariner 5512. After a pandemic hiatus, he’s back with a new series, I Wish I Had a Time Machine, exploring historical watch prices and trends. Next week, discover what $100K bought at auction in 2000. If you love watches and nostalgia, join Nicolas for a timely ride!