Matthew Bain

Neo-vintage watches from the 1980s–1990s-2000s are finally gaining recognition. With better wearability, reliability, and character, these once-overlooked pieces bridge heritage and modernity, offering collectors both nostalgia and enduring craftsmanship.

With gold at $4,000 an ounce, melt value is now setting the floor for many vintage gold watches. Dealers are weighing Piaget, Patek, AP, and Rolex models before negotiating, and some pieces are worth more as bullion than as watches. After 30 years in the business, I’ve never seen anything like this—and it’s transforming the vintage market in real time.

The Valjoux 72 isn’t just a chronograph movement—it’s the soul of mid-century watchmaking. From Rolex to Heuer, Universal to Breitling, this manual-wind column-wheel caliber powered icons of the golden era. Reliable, tactile, and full of character, the Valjoux 72 defined how a chronograph should feel—and why collectors still chase that unmistakable click today.